Whether it’s from fruit or flower, seed-saving is one very important skill I learned late when I first started growing. It was in the context of heirloom seeds – real heirlooms, not from packets, passed down for generations – that I began to understand the importance seed-saving has in the preservation of a plant. Sometimes this act of conservancy is for an entire species, where not collecting seeds can lead to extinction. This is one of the many serious consequences of forgetting to save seed. Heirloom varieties are also often less susceptible to pestilence, unlike genetically modified strains of seed. So, the theme of preservation not only works on a macro/species level, but also works on a micro/individual plant level.
I argue, especially now, seed-saving is essential. With recent catalog and in-store seed sales skyrocketing due to panic buying in the COVID-19 pandemic, companies have run out of stock. Many people who did not plan their gardens early enough are finding it difficult to proceed into the next growing season adequately prepared. And those who regularly buy seeds find the items they’re used to planting are out of stock. That’s why new gardeners need to know about seed-saving now, and they need to act. Current gardeners would do well to practice it going forward.
A lovely collard green harvest from this past spring.
Not only does seed-saving allow a gardener to have a consistent supply of seeds, it permits gardeners to extend the life of their plants. Sure, summer squash may not survive through fall, but the seeds of that squash may persist. If collected and stored correctly, they can make an appearance next spring to produce again. The plant can also cross into other territory via seed-sharing with family, friends, and community. Seed and plant swaps, and seed banks take in those seeds and spread them into the soil of your city.
There’s a predicted hunger crisis looming in America, and gardeners would do well to share their skills and with their neighbors. It’s possible to curtail this panic-buying on many fronts by sharing seeds. They’re portable, and dormant at first. But once they grow, they become teachers in the school of gardening, and they bear fruit or vegetable. The fruit contains seeds.
Black seeded Simpson lettuce seedlings from this past spring. I got these seeds from a friend.
Instead of spending money on seeds from a catalog, create a closed system in your garden. This is one of the basics of permaculture: closed systems. Think of a closed circuit as an analogy. No energy is lost. Waste (or in this example, the end of the cycle) becomes part of the energy used to begin again. What would sometimes be thrown in the trash at worst or thrown in the compost pile can be turned into cardinal gold and grown. Bolted plant seeds are collected and replanted rather than the whole plant pulled up or plowed under with seeds included. Thankfully, in many cases like this, nature finds a way. But if we apply the proper care and attention to seedlings, we can ensure a persistent cycle.
If a food shortage is on the horizon, the most basic thing we as gardeners can do is collect seeds. If we feel distributing them to inexperienced gardeners is too much of a risk, we can start them ourselves and offer seedlings to friends. Those seedlings can make homes in containers and beds and be turned into food or medicine. Seed-saving is a past practice that can take us into the future.
In this ‘Weekly Native’ series, I’ll showcase a species of plant that is seasonally active in North Texas. This week’s native is Turk’s Cap, also known taxonomically as Malvaviscus arboreus.
This Texas annual hails from Central and South America and has made its way into Texas. Generally a resident of the Gulf Coast, somehow it managed to find purchase in one county in North Texas. Most likely because someone who loved it down south decided to include it in their garden here or gifted a cutting to their northern friend.
It’s a very happy plant, no matter where it ends up in it’s growing regions. It enjoys full sunlight to partial shade and subsists in silty prairie soils to rich, loamy forest floors. Host to several species of butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds, it’s a great addition to vegetable gardens and orchards that require pollination to fruit. It’s pest resistant as well, able to propagate beyond the damage done by white flies which don’t usually make their way to the plant unless it’s domesticated.
This is the hybridized version of Turk’s Cap, denoted Pam Puryear.
It’s very showy and in landscaping projects. The flower color ranges from red to white, with newer hybrid species showing off light pink flashes. Flowers present mostly closed with a stamen rising through and above the small blooms – about one inch in size. Turk’s cap is drought-resistant, but not cold tolerant. That’s not a problem in the zones you’ll find it living. Freezes aren’t persistent in many of them. However, it is an annual, so longer-term cool temperatures will cause its leaves to yellow and for it to die back. Wait for it to grow back in spring, though.
It’s a Texas Superstar according to Texas A&M Agrilife. The criteria for a Texas Superstar are as follows:
must be attractive and useful to the gardening public
must be unique and offer desirable and ornamental characteristics (i.e., the ability to perform in the heat of Texas summers or pest resistance) not usually available in commonly sold plants
must consistently perform well for most Texas consumers regardless of their gardening expertise and growing locations
must be as pest resistant as possible (deer proof is an added bonus)
must be able to be propagate and mass-produce in sufficient numbers to meet consumer demand; and
preferably is so attractive in the sales container that it “sells itself” to consumers – who have never heard of the attributes of the plant
Based on these, it’s easy to see how Turk’s Cap is a great plant to begin a gardening journey. Maybe one of your friends is growing it? To propagate the plant, root clippings in water with rooting powder. Then plant in soil.
Most of the plant – save the roots – can be eaten. Small fruit grow after the plant flowers, and studies have shown the fruit can reverse liver damage in lab rats. Foragers purport the plant is a great source of antioxidants, protein, starch, and vitamin C. So, if you find yourself starving in a field of Turk’s Cap, take a few! But use proper preparation methods to break down hard-to-digest enzymes first and ensure the plant has not been treated with toxic pesticides which can poison anything over time. The leaves, for instance are less difficult to digest if they’ve been wilted a bit. The flowers can be eaten raw and taste like honey suckle. Mineral and nutrient concentrations have powerful medicinal benefits as well, making Turk’s cap a wonderful treatment for colds, fever, wounds, and hypertension. That’s just a few of the medicinal uses for this plant. In fact, the medicinal use of Turk’s Cap has been employed to this day in Mayan culture. Current studies show it could be very promising if used in the pharmaceutical industry.
So, if you’re new to gardening, or you just want to grow something that doesn’t require much effort on your part, Turk’s Cap is your plant. Wait until Spring, and try it out, why don’t you?
Here it is, doing great and persistent among other lovely plants despite our recent cold snaps. Grow on, friend!
Patrock, Rich, Shelley Maher, and John Reilley. “A comparison of flower visitors to Texas native and exotic ornamentals.”
Abdelhafez, Omnia Hesham, et al. “Hepatoprotective potential of Malvaviscus arboreus against carbon tetrachloride-induced liver injury in rats.” Plos one 13.8 (2018): e0202362.
Rodríguez-García, Cecilia Mónica, et al. “Antioxidant, antihypertensive, anti-hyperglycemic, and antimicrobial activity of aqueous extracts from twelve native plants of the Yucatan coast.” PloS one 14.3 (2019): e0213493.
Ok, I’m going to come clean. Every good organic gardener has a secret so hidden, that no one would ever know they had it. It may be tucked away in a barrel in a barn, or in a shed, or even a kitchen cabinet. It could even be nestled next to one of your skeletons in the closet. Mine sits in a detached garage. I can divulge that it does not smell good, either. It’s putrid and fishy. Usually the best secrets of this kind don’t smell great. When I learned about this, it completely changed my gardening game. It became a tool I learned to employ at least once per week.
What am I talking about anyway? I’m talking about every gardener’s favorite stinky secret: FERTILIZER! Ok, maybe it’s not a secret, but it’s more fun to pretend like it is. There are a lot of different fertilizers. OG organic gardeners and farmers swear by different recipes that are often similar across the board. Usually there’s fish emulsion which is derived from leftover fish parts. There’s some apple cider vinegar and molasses. Compost tea is included. And they’re mixed together with kelp and other ingredients, and left to ferment for months. Blech! Not appetizing, thinking about that. But plants love certain kinds of rot, don’t they? Organic farmers probably have the space and the materials needed to create their own fermented mess of organic matter that helps plants root more solidly and take off. But this particular fertilizer can do mostly the same thing without as much need for storage and not as much mess.
I have another bit of info to divulge. I am not being paid for this post. Instead, I’m promoting a product that has proven successful in many gardens. I’ve seen it firsthand in my garden, and I’ve consumed product from gardens and farms where this fertilizer is used. I’m talking about Garrett Juice! The makers of this product believe in the formula so much, they’ve included a recipe on their web site. Most home gardeners do not have all the items needed to create their own batch, making it easier for many people to buy it pre-made. And it’s really not that expensive if we compare the cost of a jug (only about $20-30) to the cost of acquiring all the materials needed to make it. It’s available at most big box hardware stores, and probably at your local farm store. Since the formula is diluted, one jug will last a long time. I’ve had mine for about 6 months and haven’t even used half of it. When we’re talking regular use, we’re talking a few ounces per application.
This was one of the cheaper sprayer options. You can definitely find something less plasticy for a little more!
You’re going to need a gallon sprayer and a watering can for the two ways this fertilizer can be applied. I found a sprayer at my local hardware store for about $25. The gallon sprayer assists in foliar application, which can occur once per week. The watering can gives you the option to apply a soil soak. I do that once per month or once every other month. Too much soaking can change the pH of your soil and affect the health of your plants overall. The foliar spray gives your plants what they need to thrive even in harsh hot or cold conditions. You’ll want to apply in the early morning, or as the sun is setting so that your efforts aren’t evaporated away. I promise you that applying this liquid fertilizer to your established plants will change the game and make those plant friends so happy.
For more information, why not visit the Garret Juice web site? Maybe you can make your own stinky secret to stow away for weekly use based on the recipe there. Happy Fertilizing!
This is what Garrett Juice really looks like without all the photo editing. Thank you, Dirt Doctor!
In this ‘Weekly Native’ series, I’ll showcase a species of plant that is seasonally active in North Texas. This week’s native is Aromatic Aster, also known taxonomically as Symphyotrichum oblongifolium.
Walking through the rocky side of my yard last week, I found this!
Well, hello there, tiny flowered friend.
I knew it was in the aster family due to its characteristic flowers. They look a bit like a daisy, but the petals are thinner. They vary in color from white to lavender, and are so small – only a few centimeters wide. The leaves are variable from base to tip. It’s this that made it difficult for me to confirm identification. However, I found there is only one aster that grows here in North Texas. Commonly known as Aromatic Aster, Fall Aster, or by its Latin name, Symphyotrichum oblongifolium, and it is covering the Blackland Prairie right now.
After this sighting at my house, I noticed more of these Asters around on walks in my neighborhood. What struck me most is how many different forms the plant can take. Note the clustered nature of this patch I found in a nearby yard:
See how the flowers close up a bit when they’re in close quarters?
The leaves are barely visible among crowded blades of St Augustine grass. What is always striking is the flowers. I wasn’t the only one who noticed them, either. Social media posts in various gardening pages were full of questions about what to do with this perennial that emerged in a yard. Is it a weed? Is it invasive? How can I get rid of it?
That last question was my least favorite, of course, knowing what I know now about this native. From basic observation (see the photos in this post), it’s obvious the plant thrives in many different environments: rocky, disturbed areas; lush and regularly watered yards full of non-native grasses; and of course, my favorite find – on the nearby prairie.
Wow! Just wow.
So, what’s so great about Aromatic Aster? Well, a lot, actually. Not only do pollinators love it, but it is drought resistant. So, when social media threads have bits of advice that include pulling up the plant by its root, I have to jump in and say, wait! Think of the bees and butterflies that depend on nearby stops to survive. Know that if you decide to reduce the amount of water you apply to your non-native grass-filled yard it will carry out its growing season regardless. As will many others. But that’s a topic for another post.
In my research, I learned that not only does this plant survive drought, but it works to restore disturbed prairie land. Even though it has a relatively short growing season (from September to early November), it stores its energy in bud banks that exist below the prairie surface. So, pulling it up by the root will do little to prevent it from coming back next year. Furthermore, the more the soil it lives in is disturbed, the more likely it will step in to do some cleanup. Pulling it up by the root will actually promote growth rather than reduce it. The Aromatic Aster is a stabilizer for the prairie, and an essential for maintaining a thriving and healthy ecosystem. Due to many factors, the prairie is at risk, and allowing it to do what it would do without human intervention only bolsters its ability to self-regulate.
That feedback loop is so exciting to me: the prairie gets burned by wildfire, cut down by lawn mowers and heavy foot-traffic, and the easy-going, adaptable, drought-loving Aster steps in to restore and re balance what is off-kilter. What’s even more interesting is that this particular species of Aster has been used medicinally to treat fever. A fever is a kind of imbalance in the body, eh?
This great balancing ability has more mileage when we look at what effect the Asteraceae genus has had on the plant taxonomy community. In the past few decades there has been a lot of debate on whether or not certain plants that were scientifically categorized in the genus actually belonged there. This caused a schism from one genus (Asteraceae) into eight different genera. Even further divisions are currently in discussion. In a way this plant has convinced those of us who notice it to refocus, reclassify, and restore literally and figuratively. So if you notice these growing in your yard, please don’t remove them. They’re there to get in, do some dirty work, and retreat back into the dark below the prairie surface to rise again next fall.
If you’d like to grow Aromatic Aster in your garden, you can divide the plant easily now as it’s growing and bring it in for winter. Or you can purchase it from a local nursery that sells Texas perennials next fall. Whatever the case, do not disturb lest ye be overrun with Aster next year!
References:
Cobb, Forrest, and Roel Lopez. “Facing urban water challenges with integrative irrigation techniques in drought-prone areas.”
Gök, Rengin, et al. “Shear wave splitting and mantle flow beneath LA RISTRA.” Geophysical Research Letters 30.12 (2003).
VanderWeide, Benjamin L., David C. Hartnett, and Daniel L. Carter. “Belowground bud banks of tallgrass prairie are insensitive to multi‐year, growing‐season drought.” Ecosphere 5.8 (2014): 1-17.
Yatskievych, George. “How faster to master the Aster disaster: a primer on the changing nomenclature of Missouri Asters.” (2004): 26-32.
Fall in the Southern US is a time of rejoicing. The triple-digit degree heat has passed its way through many gardens, and cooler climates roll in allowing leaves to unfold and take in more sun than was previously allowable in the scorching summer season. Fall gardens flourish in the Southern US. It’s a great time to plant herbs, which have many uses. Herbs can be processed and extracted to create tinctures that can offer medicinal benefits, or they can be added to your favorite meals. They can be beautiful additions to your home or garden, existing for the sole purpose of gazing upon their lovely leaves or inhaling their heady aromas. Their leaves are often soft to the touch, and they provide essential nutrients to the soil of your garden bed. Herbs also contain a lot of oils, which makes them less susceptible to pests that would otherwise eat them.
Please note that it’s best to select herbs that are suited to the environment in which you plant them. And know that any medicinal uses listed here should not be taken as gospel truth, as everyone is different and herbs will have varying interactions with the people or environments in which they are grown and consumed. Proceed with caution when ingesting herbs for medicinal purposes.
Here are seven herbs that are excellent additions to your herb garden. The varieties listed are frost hardy in many zones in the US, but mostly in the southern United States.
Oregano
Frost hardy variety: Greek Oregano (zones 5-11)
With soft, light-green leaves and flowers ranging from white to light purple, oregano is a great addition to any southern garden. It can sprawl or grow tall depending on how it is cultivated. Cutting and harvesting makes it more productive. Like most herbs, it enjoys a slightly more acidic soil (between 6-8 pH). I’ve found it grows quite well both in containers and the ground here in North Texas. Greek Oregano is hardy to cold but may need some extra protection once frost comes. It typically likes to grow in temperate climates, which is why fall in the South is a good time to plant seedlings in the ground to promote strong, established growth. Greek oregano also does not require much water to thrive, making it drought-tolerant.
If you crush a leaf between your fingers, you’ll smell the peppery scented oils. Greek oregano is perfect in Italian and Mediterranean dishes. It’s also wonderful in marinades and spice mixes (think Zatar seasoning). Medicinally, it acts as an anti-inflammatory, relieving sinus pressure from colds. It also has shown to be antibacterial, lessening the proliferation of colds. It can help treat parasites and fungal infections. I personally have found oregano oil supplements produce a drying effect and lessen the excretion of mucus during raunchy winter illnesses. This is great when a cough gets too intense, but if mucus is needed to fight an illness, it may be best to leave the oregano oil on the shelf.
Lavender is one of the most loved plants due to its calming aroma and oil. Soft, thin white-green leaves emanate from central stems, which can reach a foot and a half in height. When it flowers in spring and fall, the blooms are purple and small. To keep lavender productive, it’s best to cut it back when flowers bloom. It enjoys acidic and dry to damp soils and flowers in fall and spring. It can also thrive both in containers and the ground, and will do well in temperate to hot climates, but it needs some coverage in winter.
Brushing a stem between two fingers results in the release of sweet, spicy, flowery oils. I often brush the oil on my skin after touching the plant to provide a little sense of relief and calm. It can be dried and made into a tea, or added to various culinary confections. In cooking, lavender gives food a floral flavor that is a great accompaniment to citrus (lavender lemonade, anyone?). It can also be made into an essential oil for diffusion or baths, or the oil can be applied directly to mosquito bites as an anti-inflammatory. Lavender is known in herbal and medical circles to treat fungal infections, wounds, hair loss, and anxiety. It can assist women with premenstrual symptoms, and can aid insomniacs in getting some rest.
Rosemary
Frost hardy variety: Arp Rosemary (zones 6-10)
Rosemary is one of the easiest plants to grow in the southern US. It is frost-hardy, and somewhat drought-tolerant. Established plants will thrive in hot summers, and if cut back in time will survive intense winter temps in the zones listed above. Much like its friends, oregano and lavender, it has small purple to white blooms that when cut help the plant become more herbaceous and productive. It looks similar to lavender in some ways, but has much deeper green leaves that are thinner. And like lavender, all it takes is a light brushing to release oils that produce a calming effect. One of my favorite things to do in summer here is walk by the huge (I mean, HUGE — up to 6 feet tall) rosemary plants and take a deep inhale. I don’t even have to get close to the plant to smell it when it is thriving.
I’m sure you’ve had your fair share of rosemary potatoes and rosemary-flavored meats. It’s great in teas, and also is made into essential oils for calming applications. It can carry the calm into your stomach and your nerves, and prevent dandruff when applied topically. It can stimulate digestion and kidney functioning, reducing stresses that accrue in the body. The scent of its essential oil is light and lovely.
Yarrow
Frost hardy variety: Moonshine Yarrow (zones 3-9)
Yarrow is one of the easiest plants to grow in North Texas because it does well in silty soils. It has silvery green, fern-like leaves that are fragrant when rubbed between fingers. The flowers are a stunning yellow, unlike the white flower of common yarrow. Small flowers are clustered at the top of a strong stalk that emanates from the ferny groupings at its base. It will wilt when watered too much, which alludes to its drought-tolerance. It’s also very easy to grow and maintain — a great choice for those new to gardening. Yarrow thrives in the prairie ground here in North Texas as a perennial, but can also be planted in containers. It will survive a Texas winter, but may need some assistance with prolonged cold temperatures.
Yarrow flowers should be dead-headed when spent, and can be kept for tea. Yarrow is great for promoting better circulation in the body, and healing wounds. It can break a fever, and also can be used to treat menstrual symptoms. It has also been known to treat depression. The scent of yarrow is akin to chamomile.
Sage is one of the most common plants in the world. Salvia species number upwards of 500 in the northern hemisphere alone. This variety, common sage, is one of the easiest to cultivate. The leaves are textured and soft, and have a very distinctive fragrance when rubbed. In bloom, common sage produces beautiful purple half-flowers that bees and butterflies love. Much like rosemary, it’s easy to spot sage with your nose before you see it due to its lovely fragrance. It enjoys richer soils than the other herbs discussed here, but is still drought-tolerant.
Sage is a lovely addition to many dishes. It’s typically used as an herbaceous companion to roasted meats and veggies. Butternut squash soup wouldn’t be complete without some sage. Drying leaves and making it into a tea is one way to treat colds, as it dries the mucosal membrane. It also works well for digestive issues, depression, and there is some evidence to suggest it can treat Alzheimer’s disease. Burning sage for smudging is a longstanding practice. Typically white sage is used for smudging, but all other aromatic herbs can be used. And this may be a better practice at this point as white sage overproduction is occurring to satisfy the commercial craving for smudging herbs. Once you see how easy it is to grow your own herbs, you’ll find it much less costly to use those to smudge and cleanse a space. You’ll also remove yourself from contributing to a system that degrades a pre-existing ecosystem and longstanding practice. You could even try to grow your own white sage, if you’re feeling adventurous!
Turmeric and Ginger
Frost hardy turmeric variety: Common Turmeric (zones 7-10)
Frost hardy ginger variety: Common Ginger (zones 8-11)
Another insanely easy (I’m talking, “plant and let it do it’s thang” easy) set of herbs to grow that provide so much payoff is turmeric and ginger. Unless you’re working with sub-arctic winter temperatures, both of these rhizomes are perfect for a beginner herb gardener. Ginger is typically very cheap in the grocery store, but turmeric is not. So next time you’re in the store and you see a nib of ginger or turmeric with a small node growing, grab it. And then plant it. Turmeric and ginger both will grow very well in any soil that is 100% organic matter. If you’re planting in the garden, give it a little hole with rich soil that includes organic compost or cow manure. If you’re planting in a container, you can provide a similar mix. You’ll plant either rhizome a few inches under the earth, and as long as you’re in a growing season, leaves will grow. Both plants are lovely to look at. Leaves will grow in spring to late fall and die in winter, but get this — the rhizome will continue to grow even though the foliage has died. And you’re welcome at the time leaves start to brown to dig up the rhizome, take a little, and replant it for future harvests.
Ginger and turmeric are both heavily used in East Asian cuisine. They are well known anti-inflammatory friends. They are great in teas, pastes, and powders. They are spicy, and used to add warmth to any dish. Turmeric is useful for natural dyeing, as the rhizome emits a very bright orange yellow secretion that sets well into almost anything. Therefore when you’re using it in the kitchen, make sure you wash hands thoroughly after chopping. Ginger, thankfully, doesn’t have the same problem.
When combined, the immune-boosting anti-inflammatory effects of both are bolstered. They are great for fighting colds, and great for treating pain. They are also excellent for reducing nausea and improving digestive functioning.
Finally we have reached the fall season in the North American South, and the Autumnal Equinox has just passed. For some that means nothing more than one instance of equal parts day and night in late September. For those who grow, that means it’s time for fall prep and planting. By this time in Zone 8b, where I live, seeds are already started, beds have been prepped, and the time to plant seedlings outdoors is coming. Direct seeding into prepped soil is just around the corner. While there is no one recipe for seed-starting, there are some basics that if followed will ensure your success in building a strong foundation for a growing season. I’ll walk you through my process, its benefits, and its limitations as well. While I prefer to maintain a relatively permacultural outlook when it comes to growing plants, I do not stick to that in this article. For the sake of time and cost, I used many methods that are outside of that scope. But the methods I used are still within the scope of organic gardening.
On Soil
As I mentioned before, soil recipes can vary slightly based on what you have available and what seeds you wish to start. Overall, the recipe below worked well for me, but based on the plants you’d like to grow, it may require some extra care and maintenance. If you have lots of soil and soil amendments handy, you can do a quick browser search to see if you can cobble together starting soil from those items. Maybe you have all the items I’ve listed below, which in that case, great! Let’s get going. I used the following:
Seed-starting soil recipe
4 parts compost
1 part perlite
1 part vermiculite
2 parts peat moss/humus
Sand (if needed for seed that enjoy sandier conditions)
You’ll need a cup handy and large receptacle in which to mix the elements together (1 cup equals 1 part). I used a small eight ounce plastic container as my cup and a large kitchen bowl to mix my recipe. It’s nice to have five-gallon buckets to mix the elements, but not absolutely necessary. In gardening, make do with what you have. Nature finds a away and so can you. Combine the soil parts together, reserving sand to mix only for sand-loving seeds. It can be added in small amounts.
Other Supplies
There are a few other items you’ll need to start seeds indoors. They are as follows:
Seed-starting supplies
Seeds! (Pick plants that like to grow in your USDA zone at the right time – this planting calendar is useful if you don’t know your USDA zone or planting times. Use organic seed companies that guarantee they are GMO-free if possible.)
Starting trays (multiple options – might I say, infinite options! See the containers below? I reuse anything I can get my hands on. Reuse is a great way to make your seed-starting venture affordable. Make sure there are holes in the bottom of the container to drain the water from your starts). If you plan to use peat pots, you can plant those directly into your garden bed.
Counter/shelf space
Grow light or adequate sunlight on the south side of your home
Something to contain dirt and moisture from the bottom of your trays
Labeling equipment (tape, markers, labels, etc)
Here is my setup:
I used a very small space this year as my kitchen counter isn’t ample in my home. I was able to fit all of my trays in a 2.5 foot by 3.5 foot space on our kitchen counter. There is also an outlet nearby that I can plug my grow light into. I received this grow light from a family member as a gift and it has been very useful. It’s also exceptionally inexpensive. You can find grow lights in many different places, though, and you don’t have to buy from large corporations to find something that will bring you success in seed-starting. In fact, it’s possible you could find one for free or very cheap on Craiglist or another similar outlet.
The space needs to be dirt and water-proofed. This could be as simple as a towel put underneath the trays to prevent direct contact with dirt and water in your space. I used two sheet pans to catch water that could then be reabsorbed into the roots of the seedlings if I over-watered. If you use a towel you’ll want to replace it on a regular basis so as to prevent mold.
Soft Supplies Needed
You’ll need to know:
When to plant specific seeds and what soil they like (check the Farmers Almanac link above and the seed packet)
How to plant those seeds (planting depths and soil types, usually listed on a seed packet)
When to transplant them into larger containers when they outgrow the starting trays
When to harden them off outdoors
How much moisture to provide
How much light they need
Which plants are companions with other plants (the image below shows a garden plan which makes companion planting easier; please forgive my rather poor drawings)
Other soft skills that help are patience and understanding as well as consistent care and attention. Seedlings are like babies. They are not always fragile and susceptible to the environment they’re in, but they often are. Treat them as though they are new lives you’re bringing into the world. When you turn on your grow light in the morning, greet them verbally. I mean it! Play them some music. Give them purified water or spring water. They will appreciate the care you give them and grow in direct response to that care. Okay! I know this is cheesy, but these behaviors fall in line with other good gardening habits. There’s nothing wrong with looking at the world around you and treating it like a living, breathing being. I’d posit it’s a healthier way of living in and with the world.
The Process
Since your specific situation will change the steps you follow, know that I’m providing here my context-specific process in seed starting. I began by planning which seeds I’d like to grow. This was based purely on the seeds I have in my possession and the timing of growth for those plants. After I selected those seeds I looked at a list of companions and paired up the seeds I had. Remaining seeds were either set aside for the next growing season or started for planting in a container or another bed where they won’t steal nutrients from other plants. I typically make a diagram of the garden plan in a notebook I have (see above) which details where in my raised bed these plants will go. Then I cross-check my plan with the information I have on hand to be sure I don’t leave anything out or plant something next to something else that would sap nutrients.
Once I had the seeds set aside, I looked at my trays, garden space, and the number of seeds to see how many I could plant for each. Then I filled my trays with seed-starting soil and planted seeds according to instructions on the packet. If there weren’t instructions present, I looked it up. Germination can hinge on how the seed is planted.
Then I labeled the trays as I planted the seeds. I used the labels that were provided with the trays but ran out, and so I switched to masking tape. The words were written with a marker. I made sure there was good music playing while I was doing this. It made the effort more enjoyable for me, and also may have provided a good space for the seeds to proliferate.
Finally I set up my trays in the sheet pans, watered the seeds with a dropper and turned on the grow light. At first I had the grow light on from the hours of 8am to 7pm. When the seedlings got a bit spindly I decided it would be alright to reduce that time to about 5-7 hours of light per day. The fact that we are moving into winter was also considered, so you will want to think about the amount of light in that season. I initially watered every day, but also cut that back as the light wasn’t drying out the trays quickly enough for that much water. You can also water from underneath, adding more water to non-porous water and dirt protection below as it dries up. Note that if you are using peat pots watering from below will deteriorate your planters. Light position is important. Experiment with this, and do some research if you notice your seedlings are looking wilted or spindly.
To get ready to transplant your seedlings into your garden, they’ll need to be hardened off in an area outside. The next article in this series will examine the process I followed for that. Stay tuned!
